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Cltridez Talaria Ultra Brake Kit – Rear Brake Upgrade for Talaria XXX, MX3 & MX4

What's Included:

• Caliper Bracket: Made from durable 6061 T6 aluminum with a sleek black finish.
  * Surron Ultra Bee OEM Rear Brake Assembly, brake line, and master cylinder.
  * Surron Brake Rotor: A 240mm x 3.3mm stainless steel rotor.

Compatibility:

• Talaria XXX
• Talaria Mx3
• Talaria Mx4

Why Upgrade?

The Ultra Bee Brake Kit significantly improves braking performance, providing the stopping power and control needed for hardcore stunt riding. Say goodbye to brake fade and hello to enhanced confidence!

Key Features:

* Heat Dissipation: The 240mm stainless steel rotor prevents overheating.
* Stopping Power: The Surron Ultra Bee OEM rear brake caliper offers maximum brake bite.
* Control: The Ultra Bee master cylinder delivers smooth, precise modulation for easy wheelies.

Installation Guide

⚠️ DRAFT — All torque values and clearance specs below require verification against Talaria/Surron supplier documentation before publishing. Do not treat as final.

Tools Required

• 4mm, 5mm, 6mm hex (Allen) keys
• 8mm, 10mm combination wrenches
• Torque wrench (5–25 Nm range)
• Brake bleed kit (syringe or vacuum pump)
• Flat-blade screwdriver (caliper piston reset)
• Lint-free rags and nitrile gloves
• Feeler gauge or vernier caliper (pad/rotor clearance)
• Thread-locking compound (medium-strength, e.g. Loctite 243) — verify with supplier if required on bracket bolts

Step 1 — Preparation & Safety

1. Place the bike on a center stand or paddock stand on a flat, clean surface.
2. Ensure the rear wheel is off the ground and free to spin.
3. Wear nitrile gloves throughout — brake fluid is corrosive and will damage painted surfaces.
4. Have rags ready to catch any fluid spills immediately.

Step 2 — Remove the Stock Brake Assembly

1. Using a 5mm hex key, remove the two caliper mounting bolts and slide the stock caliper off the rotor. Hang it from the frame with a zip-tie — do not let it dangle by the brake line.
2. Remove the stock rotor bolts (typically T25 Torx or 5mm hex — confirm for your model year) and slide the rotor off the hub.
3. If reusing the stock master cylinder, leave the brake line connected. If replacing, place a clamp on the line before disconnecting to minimize fluid loss.

Step 3 — Mount the New Rotor

1. Clean the hub face with isopropyl alcohol; remove any debris or rust.
2. Fit the 240mm stainless steel rotor onto the hub, aligning bolt holes.
3. Thread rotor bolts finger-tight first, then torque in a star pattern.
   Torque spec: [VERIFY WITH SUPPLIER — typical range 8–12 Nm]
4. Spin the wheel and confirm the rotor runs true with no visible lateral wobble.

Step 4 — Install the Caliper Bracket

1. Position the 6061 T6 aluminum bracket against the swingarm mount.
2. Apply medium-strength thread-locker to bracket bolts if specified by supplier.
3. Torque bracket bolts: [VERIFY WITH SUPPLIER — typical range 20–25 Nm]
4. Confirm the bracket sits flush with no rocking or play.

Step 5 — Caliper Alignment & Spacer Fitment

1. Slide the Ultra Bee OEM caliper onto the bracket, positioning it over the rotor.
2. Check pad-to-rotor clearance on both sides — target even gap of approximately 0.2–0.3 mm per side (confirm tolerance with supplier).
3. If included spacers are required to center the caliper over the rotor, insert them between the caliper and bracket before threading bolts.
4. Thread caliper mounting bolts finger-tight, adjust lateral position for equal pad clearance, then torque: [VERIFY WITH SUPPLIER — typical range 10–15 Nm]
5. Spin the wheel to confirm no pad rub.

Step 6 — Brake Line Routing

1. Route the OEM brake line from the master cylinder down the frame, following the original cable path or the path specified in the supplier diagram.
2. Avoid sharp bends under 50mm radius, contact with hot components (motor, battery), or pinch points at suspension pivot zones.
3. Secure the line with OEM or compatible P-clips at all original routing points. Do not over-tighten clamps — line should not be compressed.
4. Ensure adequate slack for full suspension travel without pulling taut at full droop.
5. Connect the banjo fitting to the caliper and torque the banjo bolt: [VERIFY WITH SUPPLIER — typical range 15–18 Nm]. Use new copper sealing washers on both sides of the banjo.

Step 7 — Brake Fluid Handling & Bleeding

1. This system uses DOT 4 brake fluid — confirm specification with supplier; do not mix fluid types.
2. Fill the master cylinder reservoir; do not exceed the MAX line.
3. Bleed the system using a syringe or vacuum pump at the caliper bleed nipple until no air bubbles appear in the fluid stream.
4. Top up the reservoir after bleeding and replace the reservoir cap securely.
5. Wipe all fluid off painted, rubber, and plastic surfaces immediately with a damp cloth.

Step 8 — Post-Install Safety Check

1. Lever feel: The brake lever should feel firm with no sponginess. If soft, repeat bleeding.
2. Static hold: With the bike stationary, apply full lever pressure for 30 seconds — pressure should not fade or drop.
3. Rotor clearance: Spin the wheel by hand and confirm no rubbing or dragging sound from pads.
4. Hardware inspection: Visually confirm all bolts are torqued; check for any weeping fluid at banjo fittings.
5. Low-speed roll test: Before riding at speed, perform 3–5 slow stops from walking pace to confirm brake engagement and release.
6. Bed-in procedure: Perform 10 moderate stops from 20 mph (30 km/h) with a 30-second cool-down between each to seat the pads to the rotor. Avoid hard stops until bed-in is complete.

⚠️ This installation block is a DRAFT. Verify all torque specs, fluid type, spacer requirements, and routing details with the Talaria/Surron supplier before saving as live content. Do not publish without technical sign-off.